and pat them dry with paper towels. Heat the remaining 6 tablespoons oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the eggplant and cook, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is browned, adding more oil as needed. They should just cook through. Add the tomato mixture, blanched celery, anchovies, olives, and capers. Dissolve the sugar in the vinegar and stir into the eggplant mixture. Add the parsley and lemon zest, if using.
CHILI CON QUESO
MAKES 8 TO 12 SERVINGS
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Editor: When this recipe was first published in Menus for Entertaining (1965), corn chips, such as Fritos, were the norm, and mass-produced tortilla chips were waiting in the wings. The truth is, you can dip just about anything crunchy (including the suggested bread sticks and celery) in chili con queso, and it would be addictive.
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For the Cream Sauce
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup Chicken Stock , heated
½ cup heavy cream
One 28-ounce can Italian plum tomatoes
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Two 4-ounce cans chopped green chilies, drained
1 pound shredded Monterey Jack or Cheddar cheese
Corn chips, bread sticks, and celery sticks, for serving
To make the cream sauce: Melt the butter over low heat in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan. Mix the flour into the butter with a whisk or spoon and cook slowly, stirring all the time, for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the roux is well blended and frothy. Gradually stir in the stock. Increase the heat to medium and cook, whisking all the time, until the sauce is smooth, thick, and at the boiling point. Let the sauce simmer, stirring, for 3 or 4 minutes. Stir in the cream and simmer for a few more minutes.
Combine the tomatoes and garlic in a medium saucepan and season with salt and pepper. Cook down for 20 minutes over medium heat, stirring occasionally to break up the tomatoes. Add the chilies. Cook until the juices evaporate and the mixture is thick and pasty, about 15 minutes. Add the cream sauce and cheese, and stir well until the cheese melts. Place in a chafing dish or electric skillet over warm heat. Serve with the chips, bread sticks, and celery.
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Anchovy-Parsley Dipping Sauce
Makes about 2 cups
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Editor: As with Anchovy Mayonnaise , serve this with raw vegetables.
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1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
18 anchovy fillets in oil, drained
Freshly grated zest of 1 lemon
3 garlic cloves, crushed under a knife and peeled
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Kosher salt
Combine all of the ingredients in blender and whirl for 1 minute. Correct the seasoning with salt and more pepper.
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SKORDALIA
(GREEK GARLIC SAUCE)
MAKES ABOUT 1¾ CUPS
Skordalia is basically a mayonnaise with a great deal of garlic, further thickened by finely ground almonds (you can make these by chopping blanched almonds in a blender or food processor until they are pulverized to the consistency of very fine bread crumbs). Traditionally, the sauce is made with a mortar and pestle. First the whole garlic cloves are ground to a paste with the pestle, then raw egg yolks are pounded into the garlic with the pestle until thick and sticky, then the olive oil is pounded in drop by drop until it forms a mayonnaise. The other ingredients are then mixed into the mayonnaise.
I find it much easier to be less traditional and make the sauce in a blender or food processor. It is delicious with hot or cold poached fish, with fried fish, as a dip for shrimp, raw vegetables, or artichokes, and as a sauce for rather bland vegetables such as cauliflower and boiled potatoes.
4 to 6 garlic cloves, very finely chopped
2 large eggs
3 or 4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup olive oil or half olive oil and half peanut oil
½ cup finely ground blanched almonds
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Put the garlic (the amount depends on your taste),
J. L. McCoy, Virginia Cantrell