eggs, 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice, and the salt into a blender or food processor and blend or process until just mixed. Add the oil in a thin, steady stream, according to the directions for blender or food-processor Mayonnaise . Transfer to a bowl and stir in the ground almonds. Mix in more lemon juice to taste, and then the parsley. Chill before serving.
VARIATIONS
THICK SKORDALIA: For a thicker sauce, stir in 1 cup fresh white bread crumbs with the ground almonds.
POTATO SKORDALIA: Instead of ground almonds, mix 1 cup plain mashed potatoes (with no butter or milk added) into the sauce. After the mayonnaise is made, put the potatoes into the blender or processor and blend until just combined.
BRIOCHE EN SURPRISE
(ONION SANDWICHES)
MAKES 24 SANDWICHES
Some famous French hostess supposedly started the fashion for the recipe below and created a sensation in her salon. I am sure a reputation and a leading position in any town can be built up if you serve enough of them for they are as contagious as measles. A good friend of mine can eat a dozen of them at one sitting.
Not only is this delicious, but it is one of the most decorative canapés you can make, for an edging of brilliant green enhances the golden yellow of the brioche and makes a most appetizing tidbit.
Twenty-four ¼-inch-thick brioche slices, cut into 2½-inch-diameter rounds
1 ⁄ 3 cup Mayonnaise , or store bought
2 small yellow onions, cut into 24 very thin rounds
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, patted dry
Spread the rounds on one side with mayonnaise and place the rounds mayonnaise-side up on the work surface. On half of the slices place an onion round, just the size of the brioche, and salt it well. Top with the remaining brioche rounds, mayonnaise-side down. Roll the edges of each sandwich first in mayonnaise, and then in the chopped parsley.
VARIATION
ANCHOVY CANAPÉS: For a similar canapé, use the same process. Spread the brioche rounds with Fines Herbes Butter , and place fillets of anchovies on one half of the slices. Top with the remaining buttered brioche; roll the edges in mayonnaise and then in parsley.
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Editor: Loaves of brioche bread are available at specialty bakeries. Or make your own (see recipe Brioche Bread ). Use a sharp round biscuit or cookie cutter to cut out the rounds.
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Sandwich Spreads
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Editor: These sandwich spreads are a good indication of the creativity that Beard brought to his catering company in New York in the late 1930s. Sandwich the fillings on top-quality bread (firm white sandwich or brioche bread with a tight crumb work best, not sourdough breads with lots of air holes), and cut into fingers. Or cut into rounds with a biscuit cutter.
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Chicken, Pimiento, and Pine Nut Spread
Chop together 1½ cups of cooked chicken and 2 drained canned pimientos . Add ½ cup of chopped pine nuts, 1 finely chopped shallot, and a few leaves of finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley . Bind with a few tablespoons of ketchup-style chili sauce to make a firm paste. Season the spread with kosher salt and a few grains of cayenne pepper .
Ham and Pickle Spread
Finely chop 8 ounces (about 1½ cups) cold baked ham with 3 sweet gherkins (small pickles) and 1 teaspoon of dry mustard . Moisten with 1 or 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise .
Swiss Cheese and Olive Spread
Thoroughly mix 2 cups of grated Swiss cheese , 3 tablespoons of pitted and chopped green or black olives , and 2 tablespoons of finely chopped green bell pepper . Moisten this with enough mayonnaise to make a thick paste.
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Compound Butters
The following basic butters here are useful for canapés and sandwiches, and they fill a need very often for snacks and sauces. [ Editor: They are also useful to have in the freezer to put on top of hot grilled steaks, chops, chicken breasts, and fish fillets, or to flavor boiled or steamed vegetables. ]
Chutney Butter
Cream 8 tablespoons (1 stick) softened unsalted butter and add 2