Cashmere was short of labour. One of the main ideas behind the planning of the Canterbury settlement was to bring out the right mixture of masters and workmen; but this had not worked very well, partly because too many of the workmen had gone off toAustralia looking for gold. Here, for once, was an Australian family coming in the right direction.
Many people came out to admire the Armenian as she sailed up Lyttelton Harbour with a brisk nor’easter filling her sails. To the Phipps family the first glimpse of Lyttelton was just as beautiful. After the bare cliffs at the heads and the steep brown tussocky hills, they came quite suddenly on to the little port, rather like a tiny copy of Sydney with its houses scattered over the hillsides, a few hotels and stores, two jetties and a number of small boats on the water.
The Armenian furled her sails and came slowly alongside under steam. Mr and Mrs Cracroft Wilson were handed ashore and followed by the other cabin passengers, all bound for refreshment at the Mitre Hotel. Next, led by Indian servants in white clothes and turbans, came their splendid horses. This caused quite a stir; but most of the watchers had returned to their work by the time the donkeys were led off by three young boys from Australia; and hardly anyone noticed that strange animal the jackass. Mrs Phipps, Emma and Jim came last of all.
The boys found a place to tether the donkeys and let them graze. This town, which still led Christchurch for size, was quite busy. There were four inns, each with its own stables and stockyards; also shipwrights, saddlers, business offices, and the printing works of the Lyttelton Times. Best of all in their eyes was a baker’s shop with rolls still warm from the oven, and a dairy with fresh milk and butter and cheese.
In Australia Mr McCracken had teased them about going to the ‘shivery isles’. From the first moment ashore, Jim felt the ground slowly rocking from side to side. With alarm he looked at his mother and brothers, but as they did not seem tobe worrying, he held his tongue. Only when they reached the steep streets did the rocking become so bad that he grabbed at his mother’s skirt. Big as he was, he was terrified that he would slip right down into the sea, which seemed to rise towards him.
‘Jim, don’t drag on me so!’ exclaimed Mrs Phipps.
Jim’s eyes grew wide and scary.
‘I’ve got to hold on! The earthquake’s going to throw me over!’
‘Earthquake? There isn’t any earthquake!’
‘There is!’ screamed Jim, and he let go and lurched right into the clay of the road.
Jack sprang to catch him before he could be hurt by the wheels of a dray going past. ‘It’s the waves, stupid! You can feel them rocking still.’
‘Come, we’ll sit down till it goes off,’ said Mrs Phipps kindly; and they found a bench outside the Canterbury Hotel where Jim turned his face to the wall to hide his confusion. Here they were found by a shepherd from Cashmere who had come to show them the way.
This part of the journey was straightforward but slow. Most of their things were packed on to the donkeys, with room on the quietest one for Emma to ride. As for the others, they must walk. The donkeys were in no hurry, but the jackass, which nature had intended for a fast running animal, took quite a lot of holding. Like all pioneers they climbed the Bridle Path which crossed the hills to the plains.
At every pause there was an enchanting view of the harbour. It was like a long arm reaching from the sea, with three fingers outstretched at the end, and Quail Island humped up in the middle with steep cliffs and a crown of tussock. Most of thehighest hills were topped by rocky crags, with Mount Bradley looking the craggiest and highest of them all, rising above the southern shore.
The family rested at the top of the Bridle Path while the donkeys nosed about among the tussock. Below, for mile after mile the plains stretched out towards the foot of the snowy ranges.