a kitchen drawer and wipes tears from her face. She hopes this trip is worth it. She stirs the stew for another few minutes before testing that the carrot is cooked through, and then spoons out two modest helpings. With Uruguayâs skyrocketing inflation, grocery bills are getting harder to meet. If Carlos does well this time, it will make all the difference.
âDinnerâs ready,â she calls out. âIf you come right away, there should be time for a walk down to the harbour afterwards.â
MarÃa is smiling when she reappears, seemingly having already forgotten about their altercation, and eats hungrily. Julia wishes she had the same appetite. After the call to Migiliaro, she feels sick to her stomach.
Itâs a five-minute walk to the Puerto de Montevideo, which is stacked high with large, foreign-owned factory ships that form a floating extension to the city. The piers are awash with poorly dressed, desperate-looking crews from China and Russia. All the local fishermen, and there arenât many left, have been pushed up-river. They nestle together alongside refugees who have fled rural poverty only to co-habit in conventillos, the crumbling houses of the old city. Julia watches as another factory ship heavy with its cargo of stolen fish steams along the RÃo de la Plata. Beyond it, on the opposite shores of the harbour, is Argentina.
Julia recognises a former neighbour, a fisherman from the days when locals caught Brótola and Pescadilla inshore off Montevideo in boats they owned themselves. He was a friend of Carlosâs father, and one of generations of coastal families who earned their living this way until the factory boats flooded the market with their mega catches and forced them out of the industry.
MarÃa races ahead to the old man and he greets her warmly. âLook at the size of you, mi chica ! Youâre a little Sánchez, thereâs no doubt about it.â
â Hola, Rubén,â Julia says as she takes his proffered hand and joins him on the bench. The old man frowns at the big ships with a mixture of fascination and distaste. MarÃa takes a piece of bread from a plastic bag that he has been dipping into, and skips off to feed some gulls clustered around a stinking slurry of discarded bait.
âHow is young Carlos?â he asks. âMaster of one of these monsters now, I hear.â
âIâm afraid so. A Spanish-owned boat: the Pescador .â
Rubén raises an eyebrow.
âI havenât heard from him for a few days, but Iâm sure everything is fine. Theyâre a long way south.â Julia looks closely for his reaction, hoping for reassurance.
â Si. Itâs not easy these days, either.â The old man gazes out towards the mouth of the harbour where the RÃo de la Plata yawns brown water, heavy with fields washed away by the ploughing of soil and felling of forests, into the Atlantic Ocean. âI couldnât tell you the number of times I passed through that river mouth. But then, we would set off in the morning and be home in time for dinner.â He takes a pipe from his coat and lights it. âYour Carlos is away for much longer.â
Julia agrees with a resigned dip of her head, and Rubén blows a thin stream of smoke into the coming night beforespeaking again. âHe was always determined to make a success of himself. I warned him to take another trade, but fishing was in his blood. You canât help that. He teamed up with another young fellow, didnât he?â
â Si. Eduardo RodrÃguez.â
âRodriguez. Of course. His father is still fishing at La Paloma
Julia nods again. âSi.â She thinks of the beach town, just a couple of hoursâ drive north of Montevideo, where she first met Eduardo and Carlos, and laments to herself its countless changes. With the exception of Eduardoâs fatherâs boatshed, which is still cradled steadfastly in the lap of the dunes,
Matt Christopher, Stephanie Peters