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ginger (optional)
    IN a large bowl, beat the eggs and schmaltz or oil until well blended and thick. Whisk in the onions. Mix together the matzoh meal, baking powder, if using, salt (figure about 1 1 ⁄ 2 teaspoons), and pepper to taste, and stir into the egg mixture. Stir in the optional seasonings, if using. Cover the mixture and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours, so the matzoh meal can fully absorb the liquids and seasoning.
    BRING 4 quarts water and 1 1 ⁄ 2 tablespoons salt to a boil in a large, wide pot with a lid.
    THE balls formed from the soft batter may not hold their shape well, especially those made without baking powder. Not to worry: they will be very tender. Shape the batter into walnut- or olive-size balls, and place on a platter. When the water comes to a rapid boil, reduce the heat a bit. Carefully slide the balls in one at a time. Or you can form the balls using two spoons and drop them right into the water. Don’t crowd the pot—if necessary, prepare the matzoh balls in two batches or use two pots. When the water returns to a gentle boil, immediately cover the pot tightly and lower the heat to a simmer. Cook for 35 to 45 minutes, without removing the lid. (They will cook by direct heat as well as by steam, which makes them swell up—lifting the lid will reduce some of that steam.) Test for doneness: remove a matzoh ball and cut it in half. It should be tender, fluffy, and completely cooked through. If it isn’t, continue cooking for a few more minutes.
    REMOVE the matzoh balls gently with a skimmer or a large slotted spoon—they are too fragile to pour into a colander. To serve, heat the chicken soup, add the matzoh balls, and simmer until they are heated through. (Don’t eliminate this vital step: matzoh balls cooked in water need to absorb some of the soup’s flavor—see Cook’s Note.) Ladle into warmed shallow bowls and serve immediately. Or cover the drained matzoh balls with some broth and set aside for a few hours until you are ready to heat them.

    COOK’S NOTE: Olive Oil Schmaltz, a puree of oil-stewed onions, provides not only flavor but also a texture approximating a semisolid fat, which makes the matzoh balls fluffy and light. If you want a tasty substitute other than poultry fat, similar aromatic blends such as purees of roasted garlic or mushrooms sautéed or braised until soft, combined with some oil (add a chopped fresh herb, for extra flavor, if you’d like) also work well. And I’ve made exquisite matzoh balls using the above recipe but substituting 1 ⁄ 3 cup jarred artichoke puree mixed with 2 tablespoons olive oil for the schmaltz. For another delicious variation, see the Roasted Fennel Matzoh Balls .
    For an acceptable Poultry Schmaltz substitute, some cooks reserve the congealed fat scraped from the top of chilled chicken soup and supplement it with oil, if needed.

    I make this recipe without baking powder on Passover. I think of it here as insurance—with it, you are much less likely to experience serious Knaidlach Failure: matzoh balls that fall apart, that won’t swell up, that are too tight or too tough. When carefully prepared, however, these matzoh balls made without baking powder will be tender and buttery tasting, too. To keep them light and fluffy, remember not to lift the lid at all until you suspect they are ready, that is, not before at least 35 minutes have elapsed.
    Though cooking the matzoh balls in broth would make them very flavorful, it would also cloud the broth. So I cook them in well-salted water, then let them simmer in broth for a while, drinking in its rich taste.

    A very close runner up, this matzoh ball—eggier and a little more delicate in flavor and texture—calls for separating the eggs. Have all ingredients at room temperature.
    4 large eggs, separated
    Kosher salt
    1 ⁄ 4 cup Olive Oil Schmaltz or 3 tablespoons Poultry Schmaltz or, less desirably, 3