learn, nothing happens in Pakistan without this ritual of sitting on the floor and sipping tea as we are subtly scrutinized and deemed to be trustworthyâ¦or not.
After several meetings, each time at a different safe house, we finally win their trust. One morning before dawn, the mujahideen arrive at our room again without any notice. They give us a few minutes togather our gear, then load us into the back of their Jeep, this time for the dangerous journey through the wild, tribal territories along the border and into the snow-covered mountains of Afghanistan. Thereâs no need for blindfolds now, but we need to lay low and do our best to blend in. Along the way, we stop at a tailorâs shop and quickly get outfitted with Afghan clothing. All we need now are beards down to our waists and AK-47s slung over our shoulders.
With Charles Brockunier inside Afghanistan in 1986.
The tribal territories line the amorphous border between Pakistan and Afghanistan. They begin on the sloping plains that skirt the Himalayas and soon rise into jagged mountains. The main crop in this region is poppy flowers, grown to produce opium and heroin. Warlords hold sway here. In the few remote towns we have to sneak through, weapons are openly sold on the streets and frequently fired into the airâsort of a test drive of your AK-47 or Kalashnikov before you take ownership of it. Dennis and I stay curled up in the back of the Jeep on top of our gear. There are informants everywhere, and we would be a prize catch.
âAre you doing okay?â I ask Dennis.
âFine,â he says with an impish smile. Dennis looks like a shorter, tougher version of Brockunier, with his ruddy Irish face, short-cut reddish beard, and broad shoulders. Heâs strong as an ox, funny and charismatic, and utterly fearless. Heâs also the best photographer Iâve ever known. He never misses a shot and always manages to step squarely into the action without ever getting in the way.
âIâm just thinking about the gear,â he says. âI hope the solar battery recharging kits work right. I tested them before we left the States, but you never know.â
I donât have any doubts. Dennis keeps everything meticulously organized and Iâve seen him instantly repair his gear in the midst of a big story. Heâs unstoppable.
Brockunier is seated right in front of us, on the backseat of the Jeep with our guide and interpreter, Rasoul. The mujahideen with the AK-47 rides shotgun while his partner speeds across the rocky dirt roads. Every five minutes we hit a huge bump and our heads slam into the roof. Weâre choking on dust. Itâs hot as hell. And I love every second of it.
Itâs pitch black when we finally get through the territories and into the mountains of Afghanistan. Weâre driving without headlights, still going so fast that I canât believe the driver can stay on the winding road guided by starlight alone. But at least with the cover of darkness Dennis and I can finally poke our heads up and breathe more deeply, relieved that weâve made it without having to get through any checkpoints.
âThe border guards come and go,â Rasoul says in perfect English as we head higher into the mountains. âNone can be trusted. We must still be very careful.â
Rasoul, which is surely a pseudonym, has thin, fine features, like a nobleman. In talking with him, I can see he is highly educated and cultured. He is fluent in English, French, German, and Russian in addition to all the major Afghan dialects. He loves conversation, but he is cryptic about his past, except for sharing that he is from Kabul, the capital city of Afghanistan. My guess is that heâs a member of the Afghan elite, deeply connected to the government and business community, maybe even a former head of some intelligence operation. I imagine he would have been imprisoned or executed had he not escaped Kabul during the Soviet