on the topic âIs Deli Dying in New York?â I handledthe fish aspect, he the meat, and together we supplied a massive buffet for the convention. I was a little nervous about speaking, so a few days before the event, I started making notes for my speech, which soon evolved into one hundred pages! I called Abie to see what he had prepared, and he said âNothing.â
Russ & Daughters
When I got up to speak, I was so overprepared that I went on for about half an hour, until they were almost ready to pull me off the stage with a hook. Much of my speech mirrored a popular theme at the conventionâthe current trend toward lighter, less fatty foods. Fish, I maintained, was good for you.
Then Abie got up without any notes, looked at the audience for about a full minute in total silence, and exclaimed, âWhat am I gonna tell you? My food will kill you.â He got a lot of laughs, and went on to speak comfortably, and at an appropriate length, about the deli business. After his speech, all the health-conscious speakers and food writers made a beeline to the buffet â¦Â where the very first things to go were Abeâs fatty mountains of kishke, pastrami, and corned beef!
In keeping with my own speech, Iâm supplying the recipe for Russ & Daughtersâ famous chopped herring salad, which contains only healthy ingredients.
Russ & Daughtersâ Chopped Herring
SERVES 6
1½ pounds pickled herring fillets, coarsely chopped
1¾ cups cored, peeled, and coarsely chopped Granny Smith apples
¾ cup coarsely chopped celery
½ cup coarsely chopped sweet onions (such as Vidalia or Maui)
Sugar (only if needed)
GARNISH
Lettuce leaves
1 Granny Smith apple
4 red potatoes, cooked in skins and chilled
Dill
1. Grind all ingredients (coarse chopping is for measurement purposes only) except garnish, in a grinder or food processor. Do not purée; chopped herring should have considerable texture. Since fillets vary in sweetness, add sugar (carefully) to taste if needed.
2. Create individual portions atop beds of large lettuce leaves, garnishing each mound of herring with a thin slice of Granny Smith apple, and surround it with slices of cold red potato and a few sprigs of dill.
Coleslaw
MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS
Our customers rave about our take on traditional deli slaw. We make and serve about 1,000 pounds daily.
2 pounds green cabbage
¼ cup very finely grated carrot
3 tablespoons white vinegar
3 tablespoons sugar
½ cup Hellmannâs mayonnaise
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon white pepper
Chopped dried chives
1. Remove and discard loose outer cabbage leaves and core. Shred cabbage(the easiest way to do this is to cut the cabbage in quarters, julienne each quarter into â
-inch or smaller strips with a sharp knife, then pulse chopped cabbage a few times in your food processor). Donât shred it too fine; you want texture and crunch. Place shredded cabbage in a large bowl, add carrots (these can be shredded very fine in the bowl of a food processor), and mix.
2. In a separate bowl, mix all other ingredients (except chives). Pour them over the cabbage and carrots, and toss to combine thoroughly. Chill for several hours, or even overnight. Garnish lightly with chives before serving.
Hawaiian Slaw
MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS
The addition of a few sweet ingredients gives prosaic coleslaw Hawaiian punch. When we serve this at parties, people always ask for the recipe.
2 pounds white cabbage
¾ cup finely grated carrot
¾ cup Hellmannâs mayonnaise
2 8¼-ounce cans crushed pineapple in syrup, completely drained of liquid (press extra liquid out in a strainer)
½ cup golden raisins
3 tablespoons white vinegar
â
cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon white pepper
1. Prepare cabbage and carrots as in the above coleslaw recipe.
2. In a separate bowl, mix all other ingredients. Pour them over the cabbage and carrots, and toss to combine thoroughly. Chill for