parapets
high above the teeming city, turning streets and thoroughfares into evil-smelling streams
of filth and liquid refuse. I found my old companion, Willoughby Le Grice, lounging, as I
knew he would be at this hour, at the Ship and Turtle in Leadenhall-street. Le Grice and I
had been chums since our schooldays, though we were as different as could be. Whether
he had ever read a book through in his life, I beg to doubt; he did not care for books, or
music, or paintings – as I most certainly did; as for more advanced pursuits, I believe he
considered philosophy to be actively pernicious, whilst the mention of metaphysics made
him quite mad. Le Grice was a sportsman to his size-twelve boots: taller even than I;
thick tow-coloured hair above a four-square manly gaze, the neck and shoulders of a
young bull, and a luxuriant arc of curled hair above his top lip that made him look a very
Caractacus. A true Briton, and a good man to have by you in a dangerous corner, though
an innocent for all that. A strange pair, we must have made; but I could have wanted for
no better friend.
We ate the grilled fowl (Indian style), for which the house was celebrated, washed
down with gin-punch; then, ever biddable as he was on such occasions, Le Grice allowed
me to take him across the river to the Victoria Theatre,? just in time for the nine o’clock
performance.
There is no better place than the Victoria to watch the lower orders of the city
taking their pleasure; to me, it is a constantly fascinating sight, like lifting a stone and
observing the insect life beneath. Le Grice is not so charmed as I; but he keeps his
counsel and sits back in his seat, a cheroot clenched grimly between his teeth, whilst I
lean forward eagerly. Below our box, the coarse deal benches are packed to overflowing:
costers, navvies, lightermen, hackney-coach drivers, coal-heavers, and every sort of
disreputable female. A ferocious, sweating, stinking herd. Only the louder shouts of the
pigstrotter woman and the porter men who patrol the aisles and stairways rise above the
tumult of whistles and yells. Then, at last, the curtain rises, the master of ceremonies
finally subdues the mob, and the performance – sublime in its vulgarity – begins.
Afterwards, out in the New Cut, the rain had begun to ease, leaving the streets
awash with mud and debris brought down from roofs and gutters. Degraded humanity,
with its attendant stench, was everywhere: congregating on corners, or squatting beneath
dripping archways; sitting on doorsteps, hanging out of windows, or huddling in the
mouths of alleyways. Faces, hideously painted by the satanic light of the lamps and flares
and the glow of the baked-chestnut stoves that lit up the street stalls and public-houses,
passed by us like a parade of the damned.
Just after midnight we dropped into Quinn’s. I wished especially to go to Quinn’s.
On the excuse of attempting to locate a lost pocket-book, I sought out the waiter who had
served me the previous evening: it soon became perfectly clear that he had no
recollection of me; and so I returned, with a lighter heart, to Le Grice and we set about
the consumption of oysters and champagne with a will. But eating oysters, Le Grice
declared, only made him hungrier. He required meat and strong liquor, which, at this time
of night, only Evans’ could supply. And so, a little before midnight, we arrived in
King-street, Covent Garden.
The parallel lines of tables, laid out like a college hall, were still packed with
boisterous supper-goers. The air was cloudy with the smoke of cigars (pipes being
prohibited) and heavy with the aroma of grog and roasted meat. Adding to the convivial
din of conversation and laughter, a group of singers on the stage was lustily delivering a
six-part glee, their strong and splendid voices rising in a resonant crescendo above the
incessant clatter of plates and the rattle of cutlery. All about us, the tables