its bung has never been removed.
Only one thing is certain: It is filled with something, for wine casks, like hearts, must be kept filled to stay alive and, once emptied, they quickly shrink and crack. Oh, there have been timesâat long-ago wildish parties and the likeâwhen someone has boisterously suggested that the old wooden bung be pulled and Grandpaâs wine be sampled, but this has never been permitted, thank goodness. If it had, what came out might be enough to poison them all, Sari sometimes thinks. Sari has also been warned that the cask might someday explode. Well, if it did, that would be poetic justice, wouldnât it? For everything to end in an explosion of putrefied muscatel gone green with age? But Sari doubts that this would ever happen. Sari knows a great deal about wine and the ancient, almost lost art of cooperage (Baronet wines are now aged in glass-lined metal tanks). That particular, gentle arch of a hardwood barrel stave, and the way it is bound with its fellows in hoops to form a perfect, solid cylinder, the concave ends of the staves then fitted together tightlyâthis was how the craftsman could guarantee that his sturdy cask would withstand the most furious internal pressures for all eternity. Get Sari LeBaron started on the history of wine making and she can go on for hours. For instance: In the ruins of Pompeii, buried for centuries under layers of lava, Vesuvian cinders, and volcanic ash, were found intact wine casks. Intact, after nearly two thousand years.
The wine cask as a decorative feature of Sari LeBaronâs house is often noted by writers who come to interview her about her civic pursuits: a wine cask in the portrait gallery. How quaint! âA reminder of the familyâs humble beginnings,â they write. And âClearly the LeBarons have a sense of humor.â Rubbish! Julius LeBaron had no sense of humor whatsoever. âBaronetâAn Honest Wine for the Working Manââthis is one of the advertising slogans still used. And, on the sides of the big red tank trucks with their scrolly white lettering, hauling their loads to the bottling plant, a newer one: âBaronetâSimply Put: Simply Priced and Simply Delicious,â which was thought up by Sari herself, thank you very much, even though her son Eric sometimes tries to hog the credit for it. But it is true that from this humble old barrel sprang everythingâthe summer place at Tahoe, the winter place at Santa Barbara that belongs to Joanna LeBaron now, the ranch in Montana for anytime in between. Et cetera. Et cetera. It is an irony that Peter LeBaronâs widow is not unmindful ofâthat the blue-collar popularity of their inexpensive wines should have bought them all these costly palaces and possessions. And all this is what is at stake. This, Sari LeBaron often thinks, is why I worked so hard. It must have been. If not, then why?
As though he is reading her thoughtsâas, indeed, he often can doâGabe Pollack says to her, âItâs what you wanted, isnât it?â
âWhat? I was wool-gathering. What do you mean?â
âThis.â He gestures around him. âAll this.â
âOh, perhaps. Perhaps. I suppose so.â
âYou could have had a quite different life, you know, once upon a time.â
âOh, I know,â she says a little crossly. âAncient history. I could also have been a housewife in the Bronx, I suppose, if Iâd wanted that.â
âYou had your choices. You chose this.â
âI know.â
âOf course, Iâve always felt that whatever you chose to do youâd be successful at it.â
âHa!â
He studies her face. âThereâs more to this, isnât thereâmore that youâre not telling me. Itâs more than just Melissa, isnât it? What is it? Youâre frightened of something, arenât you? Can you tell me what it is? Whatâs frightening you,
Benjamin Blech, Roy Doliner