this summer in Essaouira?â he asked.
My initial thought was that weâd already put $500 down on a cottage near Popham Beach in Maine. Reading my mind Paul said:
âWe can still do the two weeks in Popham. Iâve booked us to leave Morocco a few days before weâre due in Maine.â
âYouâve actually bought us two tickets for Morocco?â
âI wanted to surprise you.â
âOh, you certainly did that. But you could have at least asked me if I was free.â
âIf I had asked, you would have found an excuse to say no.â
He was, alas, right about that one.
âDid you even consider the fact that I have a business, and clients? And how are we going to afford this trip to Morocco?â
âJasper sold four more lithographs last week.â
âYou never told me this.â
âThe nature of a surprise is to keep things secret.â
I was already intrigued. Outside of my time in Montreal and a trip once to Vancouver (hardly a real overseas destination), I had no experience of the world beyond American frontiers. Here was my husband offering to whisk me off to North Africa. But my alleged financial caution was, I knew, underscored by fear. The fear of foreignness. Of being dropped into a Muslim country that â for all of Paulâs talk about its modernity â was, according to anything Iâd ever read, still locked in the North African past.
âWe can easily live for a month in Essaouira for two thousand dollars,â he said.
âItâs too long to take off.â
âPromise your staff a nice bonus if they hold the fort for six weeks.â
âAnd what are my clients going to say about this?â
âWho consults an accountant between mid-July and Labor Day?â
He did have a point. It was my slowest season. But six weeks away? It seemed like such a huge block of time . . . even though I also knew that, in the great scheme of things, it was nothing, and that, yes, Morton (my bookkeeper) and Kathy (my secretary) could manage to run everything very well without me. One of the hardest lessons for anyone with control-freak tendencies to absorb is that the world actually carries on very well without them.
âIâm going to have to think this over.â
âNo,â Paul said, taking my hand. âYouâre going to say yes now. Because you know this will be an amazing experience which will take you out of your comfort zone and show you a world youâve only imagined. And it will give me the opportunity to work on a new portfolio which Jasper assured me he can sell for at least fifteen thousand dollars. So thereâs a big financial incentive. Most of all, it will be very good for us. We could truly use some time out of here, time to ourselves, and away from all that day-to-day stuff.â
Morocco. My husband was taking us to Morocco. To Essaouira. How could I not overlook my qualms and give in to the idea of a North African idyll in a walled medieval city facing the Atlantic? The stuff of fantasy. And arenât all fantasies rooted in one great hope: that of landing, even temporarily, in a better place than we find ourselves now?
So I said yes.
The immigration line inched forward, slowly, inexorably. Almost an hour had passed since weâd landed and only now were we at the front. The man from Mauritania was being rigorously questioned by the cop in the booth, the discussion getting heated, voices raised; the policeman picked up his phone to call someone, two other plain-clothes officers (guns bulging under their suit jackets) showed up and led the now angry and frightened man into a side interrogation room. Glancing away from this little drama towards my husband I could see that he was regarding these proceedings with dread.
âYou think theyâll let me in?â he whispered.
âWhy wouldnât they?â
âNo reason, no reason.â But he sounded uneasy. At that precise moment the