jumps to 4,000 gallons. Thanks to the WC, the flow is 98 percent water.
Down below, I am unhooked. My safety now depends on the monotonous beeps of the turtle, which signal safe air, and on the men in front and behind me. They set off with the walk of the flusher and I do my best to copy. The sewerman does not walk like an ordinary man. Lifting the feet, as a normal gait requires, risks kicking up the flow and splashing foul water on yourself or your workmate. For this reason, and to get better purchase on slimy brick, itâs better to glide. Feet close together, buttocks clenched (as tightly as the lips, which are best keptpursed to defend against splashes), smallish steps. Itâs mincing that manages to be macho. I try to glide satisfactorily while I take in the sights. There are bricks, shadows, and light. There is a surprising amount of beauty, which explains why sewers have their obsessive fans, and why they are so beloved of filmmakers. What lighting director wouldnât want to rise to the task of shadowing a Harry Lime in black, white, and gray menace?
The men have their eyes cast upward, looking for the incursion of leaked water. Mine look the other way, into the stream. I am nervous about what I might see and curious about what I might recognize. Thereâs a floating bloated tampon. There goes part of a polystyrene cup. I find myself peering for brown solids, alert and excited, like a kid with a fishing rod. In olden days, sewers had hunters called âtoshers.â They moved into the sewers from the banks of the river, in search of discarded riches. Sometimes they found gold; sometimes they lost their lives. There are still sewer hunters today, and there is cause: the flushers find all sorts of things in the flow. Bits of motorbikes (easily shoved down a two-foot-wide manhole), baby strollers, goldfish. Coins, sometimes, and jewelry. Cell phones by the hundred (one recent survey concluded that 850,000 handsets a year are inadvertently flushed down British toilets). Thatâs all due to haplessness, but thereâs also ignorance. Wastewater utilities have had a long-running âBag It and Bin Itâ campaign to educate people into what they shouldnât flush. The list includes condoms, tampons and applicators, sanitary towels, panty liners and backing strips, facial and cleaning wipes, diapers, incontinence pads, old bandages, razor blades, syringes and needles, colostomy bags, medicine, toilet roll tubes, and pantyhose. Bras are also unwanted: in June 2007, a lingerie set flushed down a toilet clogged sewers in County Durham, collapsed a road, and caused £15,000 in repairs. âThrowaway society,â says Smith. âMy goldfish has died? Throw it down the toilet. My hand grenade doesnât work? Throw it down the toilet.â
Hand grenade? It belongs in Smithâs best sewer anecdote, which he has told before and will tell again. He was working with a gang in the mid-level sewer near Greenwich when a flusher handed something to him. It was filth-encrusted but then he made out its shape through the muck. âI thought, âOh shit.ââ He couldnât see if the grenade was live,but if it had been, it could have blasted a hole up to the sewer above. The gang would either be blown up or drown, or both. Smith climbed up the ladder one-handed, having warned the lads above, who disappeared. He lobbed it down an embankment and hoped for the best. âThe next day,â he says, âa policeman phoned to ask me why Iâd done that. I said, âI didnât have a choice.â I asked him if it had been live, and he said, âYou donât want to know,â so I presume it was.â
I love sewer anecdotes as much as the men like telling them. The stories are rich and funny, with a spirit mined from working at extremely close quartersâflushers have to pull and push each other in tight spots, in splendidly intimate isolationâin a job that