impressive and always seems abuzz as appropriate piano music plays in the background. The decor is more art deco than traditional, with tall, stately columns sectioning off the large open spaces.
What would a Peabody be without a fountain? What would a Peabody fountain be without ducks? For all its formality, this hotel carries on a tradition begun at the Memphis Peabody, where at precisely 11 a.m., a half dozen or so ducks are escorted by the “duck master” to the lobby fountain, where they are permitted to swim until 5 p.m., when the duck master returns them to their “duck palace.” All this is done with great fanfare. The spectacle is free and open to the public, not just hotel guests. (No comments about duck being on the dinner menu, please. It isn’t.) The dining and drinking options are several: the Capriccio Grill Italian Steakhouse , Mallard’s Bar , and the Lobby Bar .
The owners know how to do things well. The accommodations are attractive, though my room could have used a tiny bit of fine tuning, particularly in the bathroom—not a big deal. Otherwise, the rooms are spacious and comfortable. I do recommend this hotel.
FYI: When the Peabody Little Rock was known as the Excelsior in the 1980s, it was the setting for the first sexual-harassment suit brought against a sitting president some years later, just before the statute of limitations ran out.
Capital Hotel
111 W. Markham St.
501-374-7474
www.thecapitalhotel.com
The historic Capital Hotel in downtown Little Rock originally opened in 1876. This beautiful property has been totally renovated. You feel grand old-world charm the minute you walk in the front door: stately columns, arches framing the balcony, high ceilings, a mosaic floor, a grand double staircase, and stained glass. There are ninety-four rooms at this refined, well-appointed property; my room was nearly perfect, and that was before the most recent renovations. I am sure it is now awesome.
Dining at Ashley’s , the featured restaurant at the Capital, is an experience that you shouldn’t miss. I enjoyed the best lahvosh (Armenian cracker bread, now off the menu) as well as other savory delights.
A unique feature of the Capital Hotel is its oversized elevator. One explanation states that it was once meant to transport both horse and rider to the guest’s room. One’s horse was most valuable. A more plausible explanation is that the elevator was designed to accommodate women in their broad hoop skirts. Regardless, the elevator is large enough to accommodate lots of travel bags with or without the horse or hoop skirt. Be sure to visit.
Shopping
River Market
400 President Clinton Ave.
501-375-2552
www.rivermarket.info
The trendyRiver Market on the banks of the Arkansas River was once filled with abandoned warehouses and buildings. Restaurants and bars of all varieties have now anchored themselves here, and boutiques and various types of shops sell an eclectic mix of wares. During the summer, there are live concerts to enjoy, and two times a week the area’s farmers offer their produce.
Missouri
I was warned about construction and possible detours into Kansas City, but I was not told that streets would unexpectedly change names! This is particularly challenging for a stranger. I was lost and really did not want to get out of the car in the area where I suddenly found myself.
Here’s a personal tidbit too good not to include: I had been in Salina, Kansas, and was almost in Kansas City, Missouri. I was to meet with executive chef Jennifer Maloney at the Kemper Museum ’s Café Sebastienne . I thought my driving instructions to the museum were clear, but I could not find the exit I was to take. I was in an area where I was glad it was daylight. I pulled off the highway and thankfully saw three motorcycle policemen in the parking lot of a fast fooder.
I apologized as I interrupted their conversation to tell them of my plight. They all compared notes to deal with my situation,