skin and white pith of the lemon and discard. Separate the lemon sections, cutting or peeling off the membranes between the sections.
Put the fennel, lemon pieces, and any collected lemon juice into a food processor and grind into a paste. Add the almonds, wild fennel, if using, mint, basil, capers, and 3 tablespoons oil and process until the mixture resembles cooked oatmeal, adding more oil if it is too thick. Season with salt.
Boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain and toss with the pesto.
BERRIES, BASIL & BELLS
{ Campanelle in crema di frutti di bosco }
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SERVES 4 | REGION: Sicily
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Berries, tingly mint, and aromatic basil combine with ricotta to create a highly unusual but crowd-pleasing pasta dish. Staggeringly simple to make, the sauce is ready before the water boils. Here it’s paired with pretty bell-shaped campanelle pasta, but it’s fantastic with any shape.
1 pound (455 g) campanelle or any short pasta
Salt
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup (170 g) fresh blueberries
1 cup (170 g) fresh raspberries
1 cup (250 g) ricotta
About 15 small fresh mint leaves
About 12 small fresh basil leaves
Freshly ground black pepper
Boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain.
Meanwhile, in a skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add three fourths of the berries, reserving the rest for garnish, and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Transfer the fruit to a large serving bowl along with the ricotta, mint, and basil leaves and stir the mixture with a fork to combine.
Toss the pasta with the ricotta mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve topped with the reserved berries.
RIGATONI WITH RED APPLES, ROSEMARY & RED ONIONS
{ Pasta mele rosse Cuneo }
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SERVES 4 | REGION: Piedmont, especially the province of Cuneo
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Crunchy bits of pancetta sautéed with caramelized red onions, apples, and a hint of rosemary—incredible! The smoky bacon harmonizes with the apple’s sweet acidity and the barely perceptible touch of black pepper that lingers on the tongue. The delicate sweetness of the caramelized onions and the wonderful woodsy aroma of rosemary add another level of flavor.
In Italy, apples star in enough recipes for pasta, ravioli, lasagna, and risotto to fill an entire cookbook! Grated apples can even be added to tomato sauce, as cooks do in the Trentino–Alto Adige region.
Olive oil
2 ounces (60 g) pancetta or bacon, minced
1 red onion, thinly sliced
2 Red Delicious apples, peeled and thinly sliced
¾ cup (180 ml) dry white wine
1 small fresh rosemary branch
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound (455 g) rigatoni or any pasta
Parmesan or other aged cheese
In a skillet large enough to later toss the pasta, heat 2 tablespoons oil, then add the pancetta and onions. Cook over medium heat until the onions are softened, about 8 minutes, then raise the heat to high and continue cooking until they are golden, another 3 or 4 minutes. Add the apples, wine, and rosemary, scraping up any bits on the bottom of the pan, and cook on high until the wine evaporates, about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper and remove the rosemary.
Boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain and toss into the sauce for 1 minute, along with a few tablespoons of the pasta cooking liquid. Serve topped with shaved or grated cheese.
SAUSAGE & BLACK FIGS WITH FUSILLI
{ Fusilli al figo moro con salciccia }
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SERVES 4 | REGION: Friuli–Venezia Giulia
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Figs, with their jamlike sweetness, add pizzazz to sausage in this dish, building a smoky and deeply satisfying pasta that’s ready in minutes. If fresh aren’t available, substitute dried figs that have been simmered in a little wine until soft.
Olive oil
1 large leek, finely sliced
2 sweet sausages
1 cup (240 ml) red wine
5 large fresh black figs
1 pound (455 g) fusilli lunghi or any pasta
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Grana padano or other aged cheese, shaved
In a large frying pan, heat 3 tablespoons oil