laughter at the back. It didnât take long to get to the place where we were to catch the boat, and as we had been the last to board the bus, we were first off, and therefore first to board the boat.
It was an interesting craft. Barely wide enough to seat two plus one across, with a narrow aisle, it had windows on both sides and at the front (the prow, I suppose), with a minute sort of refreshment bar at the back, opposite the door. We were put aboard in what seemed like an odd fashion, with empty seats between passengers, until I realized that a small boat had to be balanced, side to side and front to back. But eventually all had boarded and we took off.
After a brief announcement about the available refreshments, the man at the microphone left the passengers to get acquainted, and we began to look around. Nigel knew several of the other passengers.
âWell, not to say
know
, but I recognize them. That chap over there is in the chorus for the
Va, pensiero
. Fine baritone; heâll make a soloist one day. Those two women near the tea bar are in the
Carmen
chorus, and thereâs about a row of Haydn sopranos back there by the door.â
âHmm. Iâll expect you all to break into the âSkye Boat Songâ any minute now.â
With a mischievous look Nigel stepped into the aisle and stood up. âGood afternoon to you all and especially to my fellow musicians. There are quite a number of us, and though weâve rehearsed various pieces, there are two Iâm sure we all know. In English or Welsh, your choice. First our famous hymn.â He hummed a few bars of the end, paused a beat and then launched into the great Welsh hymn that I know as âGuide Me, O Thou Great Jehovahâ.
The Welsh have a great choral tradition. Their menâs choirs are famous throughout the world, and this particular hymn, written by a Welshman, has become sort of an âanthemâ at rugby games. I remember it well from William and Kateâs wedding, and hearing it sung in four-part harmony by those beautiful, well-trained voices, some using the English words and some the Welsh, brought a lump to my throat. Many of the other passengers joined in, but I couldnât get out a single note.
Then, after a pause, Nigel sang three notes, and the group began the most famous Welsh song of them all, âAll Through the Nightâ.
That time I had to root in my handbag for tissues.
When they had finished, Nigel turned back to see the passing scene, and I took a few last sniffs and wiped my eyes. âNigel, that was so lovely! All that gorgeous harmony!â
âYes, well, I just wish there were a little more harmony in rehearsals.â
âTheyâre not going well? I would have thought musicians of this calibre . . .â
âOh, itâs not the music, exactly. Thatâs going well enough, although there was more enthusiasm shown just now than weâve had in rehearsal. Itâs . . . undercurrents. I donât know whatâs going on, but thereâs tensionââ
He was interrupted by our guide. âWeâve all enjoyed the music, friends, but now I want to draw your attention to some points of interest.â He went on to talk amusingly about the canal, the rules of the âroadâ, and some of the passing scene.
âWeâve enough musicians on board that youâll be interested in this next house, on your right. Itâs been turned into a luxury hotel, and was the favourite place for Luciano Pavarotti to stay when he came to these parts. Pavarotti and his bed, that is. He travelled with his own.â
âGiven his size,â I whispered to Alan, âIâll bet the innkeepers were delighted. Saved them broken springs.â
âAnd now, ladies and gentlemen, we come to the highlight of our trip, the passage over the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. The aqueduct is one thousand and seven feet long and eleven feet wide, counting the towpath. It