afford to pay, we could find a stunning location.
We began at the very western tip of the island and explored every little dusty road we came to. We eased the jeep between two white pillars where a small sign discreetly marked the entrance to Covecastles. The eight contemporary buildings sat on a dune and had steps leading through the sea grape and down to the water in a private cove. Their smooth, curved rooflines were snow white against the blue sky.
âWhat a location,â I said. âLetâs see if we can rent one.â
âOh, no,â the woman inside the office said. âThese are not long-term rentals. Covecastles is a private condominium complex and the units are booked through the season. Besides, they rent for twelve hundred dollars per night. You wouldnât want to pay that kind of rent, would you?â
âNo,â said Bob. âThatâs a little high. Are there really that many people who can pay that much for a room per night?â
âOur guests are looking for a quiet hideaway. We get a lot of celebrities who donât want to be recognized; itâs almost like renting a private home.â
âDo you think they might go out if there was a good restaurant nearby?â I asked.
âThey might,â she said. âBut these people travel all over the world and are accustomed to the very finest dining. It would have to be up to the highest standard for them to leave the property.â
âThanks for your help,â Bob said. âHave a good day.â
We got back in the car wondering if we were out of our league. No, we decided, but running this restaurant would certainly be a challenge.
Driving on the left took some getting used to, and pulling out onto the main road sometimes called for a sudden swerve to correct our position. Anguillian traffic circles, called roundabouts, were a challenge. The signs said GIVE WAY, which we were more than willing to doâif we only knew which way to give. Stopping seemed a sensible choice but induced a chorus of horns tooting for us to move along. A lot of the side roads went only a few hundred feet before dead-ending at yet another deserted beach, and most of the houses were on the main road, facing inlandâas if turning their backs on paradise. By the end of the day weâd found six possibilities; only one was anywhere near the water.
In front of Bennieâs Grocery, Bennie stood talking to his son, who sat in the car with the motor running. When he saw us, he patted the roof, signaling that the young man was free to go, and asked if weâd had the lease typed. We said weâd spent the day looking for a place to live, and queried him on the house heâd mentioned.
âThe one I own needs some work,â Bennie said. âLetâs see what you found.â
We spread our map on the hood of the jeep, and Bennie studied intently the places weâd marked.
Bob pointed to the one with a view of the water. âThis would be our first choice,â he said, âeven though itâs a drive from the restaurant.â
Bennie shook his head. âThat oneâs not owned by an Anguillian.â
âDoes that matter?â I asked.
âWhen you get your work permitsâwhich I can help you with, by the wayâthere is a stipulation that requires you rent from an Anguillian. Itâs one of the ways we protect our economy.â
We were happy to rent from an Anguillian, said Bob, but it was
essential
to our well-being that we have a view of the water.
âAll the beachfront land is set aside for resort development,â Bennie explained. âIf we were to sell beachfront land to foreigners for private homes, we would have nothing left to provide jobs and income.â
Bob and I stared at each other, dismayed, realizing this made perfect sense for Anguilla.
âBesides,â said Bennie, âbuilding on the beach is risky when we get a bad storm. Most locals prefer to
Skye Malone, Megan Joel Peterson