a comprehensive survey of birds and beasts hanging from hooks by their feet. As such, one might naturally leap to the conclusion that 1912 had been a perfect year in which to measure the chefâs talents. But in a period of abundance any half-wit with a spoon can please a palate. To truly test a chefâs ingenuity, one must instead look to a period of want. And what provides want better than war?
In the Revolutionâs aftermathâwith its economic declines, failed crops, and halted tradeârefined ingredients became as scarce in Moscow as butterflies at sea. The Metropolâs larder was depleted bushel by bushel, pound by pound, dash by dash, and its chef was left to meet the expectations of his audience with cornmeal, cauliflower, and cabbageâthat is to say, with whatever he could get his hands on.
Yes, some claimed Emile Zhukovsky was a curmudgeon and others called him abrupt. Some said he was a short man with a shorter temper. But none could dispute his genius. Just consider the dish the Count was finishing at that very moment: a saltimbocca fashioned from necessity. In place of a cutlet of veal, Emile had pounded flat a breast of chicken. In place of prosciutto de Parma, he had shaved a Ukrainian ham. And in place of sage, that delicate leaf that binds the flavors together? He had opted for an herb that was as soft and aromatic as sage, but more bitter to the taste. . . . It wasnât basil or oregano, of that the Count was certain, but he had definitely encountered it somewhere before. . . .
âHow is everything this evening, Your Excellency?â
âAh, Andrey. As usual, everything is perfect.â
âAnd the saltimbocca?â
âInspired. But I do have one question: The herb that Emile has tucked under the hamâI know it isnât sage. By any chance, is it nettle?â
âNettle? I donât believe so. But I will inquire.â
Then with a bow, the maître dâ excused himself.
Without a doubt Emile Zhukovsky was a genius, reflected the Count, but the man who secured the Boyarskyâs reputation for excellence by ensuring that all within its walls ran smoothly was Andrey Duras.
Born in the south of France, Andrey was handsome, tall, and graying at the temples, but his most distinguishing feature was not his looks, his height, or his hair. It was his hands. Pale and well manicured, his fingers were half an inch longer than the fingers of most men his height. Had he been a pianist, Andrey could easily have straddled a twelfth. Had he been a puppeteer, he could have performed the sword fight between Macbeth and Macduff as all three witches looked on. But Andrey was neither a pianist nor a puppeteerâor at least not in the traditional sense. He was the captain of the Boyarsky, and one watched in wonder as his hands fulfilled their purpose at every turn.
Having just led a group of women to their table, for instance, Andrey seemed to pull back their chairs all at once. When one of the ladies produced a cigarette, he had a lighter in one hand and was guarding the flame with the other (as if a draft had ever been felt within the walls of the Boyarsky!). And when the woman holding the wine list asked for a recommendation, he didnât point to the 1900 Bordeauxâat least not in the Teutonic sense. Rather, he slightly extended his index finger in a manner reminiscent of that gesture on the Sistine Chapelâs ceiling with which the Prime Mover transmitted the spark of life. Then, excusing himself with a bow, he crossed the room and went through the kitchen door.
But before a minute could pass, the door swung open againâand there was Emile.
Five foot five and two hundred pounds, the chef glanced quickly about the room then marched toward the Count with Andrey trailing behind. As he crossed the dining room, the chef knocked into a customerâs chair and nearly toppled a busboy with his tray. Coming to an abrupt stop at the
Stephanie Hoffman McManus