gaiety of bunting. I saw a post office and went in, thinking the clerk would speak English; but when I asked him about rooms he shook his head and said, âNo, sorry. No sell.â
âI donât want to buy anything,â I said. âIâm just looking for a room.â
âSorry. Only sell stamp.â
I crossed Hennessy Road, with its clattering trams and its two huge modernesque cinemas showing American films, and came out on the water front by the Mission to Seamen. Next to the Mission was a big hotel called the Luk Kwok, famous for Chinese wedding receptions and obviously too expensive for me even to try. Further along the quay shirtless, barefoot coolies were unloading junks, filing back and forth along the gangplanks like trails of ants. Sampans tied up among the junks tossed sickeningly in the wash of passing boats. Across the road from the quay were narrow open-fronted shops, between which dark staircases led up to crowded tenement rooms; and along the pavement children played hopscotch while shoveling rice into their mouths from bowls, for all Chinese children seemed to eat on the move.
I sat at the top of a flight of steps leading down to the water. A month gone, I thought. A whole month gone, and Iâve done nothing. I must take myself in hand. I must bully myself.
But no, thatâs no use, I thought. Iâve already been bullying myself and it doesnât work. You canât bully yourself to paint. Itâs like bullying yourself not to hear a ticking clock. The harder you try, the more the sound fastens itself into your ears.
Sometimes will power is its own enemy, I thought. You canât paint by will power.
Yes, relax, I thought. Itâs only when you relax, when youâre not trying to grab what you want, that you suddenly find itâs there. . . . I leaned on the sun-warmed stone. A rickshaw went by, the coolieâs broad grimy feet making a slapping sound on the road. Then my eyes fell on an illuminated sign among the shops. The blue neon tubes were twisted into the complicated, decorative shapes of Chinese characters. I recognized the last two. They meant hotel.
Well, thatâs more my cup of tea, I thought. And right on the water front. Of course, it would be perfect. So perfect that there must be a snag. Still, thereâs no harm in trying.
I got up and crossed the quay, and turned into the entrance under the blue neon. And still not a suspicion passed my mind. Indeed the hall gave the impression of such solid respectability, with the middle-aged clerk behind the reception counter, the old-fashioned rope-operated lift, the potted palms at the foot of the stairs, that I was reminded of some old family hotel in Bloomsbury, and felt discouraged. It was all wrong for the water front of Wanchaiâand anyhow would probably be too expensive after all.
I approached the desk and asked the clerk, âHow much are rooms by the month?â
âMonth?â
The clerkâs fingers paused over the beads of his abacus: he had been making calculations from figures in his ledger, as though playing some musical instrument from a score. His Chinese gown, like a gray priestâs cassock, gave him an old-fashioned appearance in keeping with the potted palms, the antiquated lift. His head was shaven, and he had several silver teeth.
âMonth?â he repeated.
âYes, donât you have monthly terms?â
âHow long you want to stay?â
âWell, it would be a month at least. . . .â
He gave me an odd look, then dubiously began a new calculation on the abacus. The beads clicked up and down under his finger tips.
âTwo hundred and seventy dollars,â he announced at last. âA month?â
âYesâmonth.â
The Hong Kong dollar was worth one shilling and threepence, so that was about seventeen poundsâa little dearer than Sunset Lodge, but with cheap meals I could just afford it. I asked to
Brian Herbert, Kevin J. Anderson