went back to his work and Delphine looked into the box that Sabine had brought up from the cellar. The champagne bottles were covered with cobwebs and layers of dust, but to Escoffier they were priceless. Every one had been part of a historic menu; that was why heâd saved them. Some dated back to his days at Le Petit Moulin Rouge.She had heard Escoffier tell visitors their stories over and over again. Even though many of the labels were gone for more than fifty years, the shape of each bottle, the color, held its history, and Escoffier never forgot a dinner or a menu.
Delphine held out a clear bottle in her good hand. It was obviously old, with flaws, bubbles of air lurking beneath the grain. It appeared to have been blown very quickly.
âTell me, Georges,â she said, âWhat is the story of this one?â
Escoffier was slicing salt pork; he didnât look up.
âThe chop is important,â he said to Sabine. âThe carrots, onions and pork must all be cut into the same size cubes; it is more pleasing that way.â
âGeorges, you look tired.â
Escoffier continued to cube the pork. âMake a note, Sabine. When you go to the butcher, ask that he give more fat on the salt pork. That is the entire purpose of it, is it not? The more fat, the more the flavor permeates.â
âGeorges,â Delphine said loudly, âcome sit with me.â
Again, he didnât answer. He may have forgotten, she thought.
It had been a very long time. âGeorgesâ was not Escoffierâs nameâalthough at one point in his life he embraced it so fully that he had it placed on a visiting card and even wrote it into early editions of Le Guide Culinaire. But it did not appear on his birth certificate nor would it appear on his grave. It was a name that Delphine had given him years before: the same day she had said that she would take the children back to their home in Monaco and leave her husband to live in London alone. She was pregnant with their third child and told everyone that she hated London and didnât want the baby to be born there.
âIt is just a few months before the winter holiday season begins in Monte Carlo,â she told Escoffier. âYou will join us then.â
âPeople will talk.â
âPeople are already talking.â
Escoffier could not deny it. He had been less than discreet.
âIt is not as you think,â he said, although he knew it was exactly what she thoughtâbut even more complicated.
âI think that the distance may make us strangers,â Delphine said as she loaded their children onto the train. âSo I will call you âGeorgesâ so that you are reminded that I am not sure who you are anymore and you must win my hand over and over again.â
âDonât go.â
âGoodbye, Georges.â
âI will become undone without you.â
And they were gone.
Her threat did not work. Escoffier stayed in Londonâa city Delphine never returned to. He never came back to Monte Carlo for the winter season, or hardly any other season. Just a yearly post-Christmas visit, at least most years, and then back to work.
They had letters. He always signed âMuch love, Georges, and sweet kissesâ and often included a bit of professional news, such as a speech that he had given about the importance of suppressing poverty or a new menu heâd created for Prince Edward, his âDear Bertie.â But when Escoffier moved to Paris, to the Hôtel Ritz, Delphine would still not join him. Or maybe he didnât ask. Or maybe she didnât. It was so long ago, neither could remember. All in all, they lived apart for thirty years. Work, grandchildren and the luxury of freedom always got in the way.
After all those years, when Escoffier decided to retire, he appeared unannounced at Delphineâs door with steamer trunks, boxes, crates, endless cases of used champagne bottles (and more than a few
Editors of David & Charles