flavor and brightened with garlic and lemon juice—we found we got the best results by following tradition and grilling the eggplant over a hot charcoal fire. The smokiness of the fire induced other ingredients to relate to one another in a more interesting way than if cooked using other methods. Nevertheless, we found we could get perfectly acceptable results by oven-roasting if grilling wasn’t convenient. No matter the method, it was critical to work with fresh eggplants and cook them until the flesh was almost sloshy; undercooked eggplant, while misleadingly soft to the touch, tasted spongy-green and remained unmoved by additional seasonings. To avoid a watery texture, we drained the eggplant of excess fluid. A few tests more tests proved that less is more with flavorings—we stuck with tahini, garlic, and lemon juice.
GRILLED BABA GHANOUSH
MAKES 2 CUPS
When buying eggplants, select those with shiny, taut, and unbruised skins and an even shape (eggplants with a bulbous shape won’t cook evenly). Grill until the eggplant walls have collapsed and the insides feel sloshy when pressed with tongs. We prefer to serve baba ghanoush only lightly chilled; if cold, let it stand at room temperature for about 20 minutes before serving. Baba ghanoush does not keep well, so plan to make it the day you want to serve it. Serve with pita bread, black olives, tomato wedges, or cucumber slices.
2
pounds eggplant (about 2 large globe eggplants, 5 medium Italian eggplants, or 12 medium Japanese eggplants),pricked all over with fork
2
tablespoons tahini
1
tablespoon lemon juice
1
tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving
1
small garlic clove, minced
Salt and pepper
2
teaspoons chopped fresh parsley
1A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
1B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium. (Adjust burners as needed to maintain grill temperature around 350 degrees.)
2. Clean and oil cooking grate. Set eggplants on cooking grate and cook until skins darken and wrinkle on all sides and eggplants are uniformly soft when pressed with tongs, about 25 minutes for large globe eggplants, 20 minutes for Italian eggplants, and 15 minutes for Japanese eggplants, turning every 5 minutes and reversing direction of eggplants on grill with each turn. Transfer eggplants to rimmed baking sheet and cool 5 minutes.
3. Set small colander over bowl. Trim top and bottom off each eggplant. Slit eggplants lengthwise and use spoon to scoop hot pulp from skins and place pulp in colander (you should have about 2 cups packed pulp); discard skins. Let pulp drain 3 minutes.
4. Transfer pulp to food processor. Add tahini, lemon juice, oil, garlic, ¹⁄ 4 teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄ 4 teaspoon pepper. Process until mixture has coarse, choppy texture, about 8 pulses. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to serving bowl, cover with plastic wrap flush with surface of dip, and refrigerate 45 to 60 minutes. Make trough in center of dip using large spoon and spoon olive oil into it. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
OVEN-ROASTED BABA GHANOUSH
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 500 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil, set eggplants on baking sheet and roast, turning every 15 minutes, until eggplants are uniformly soft when pressed with tongs, about 60 minutes for large globe eggplants, 50 minutes for Italian eggplants, and 40 minutes for Japanese eggplants. Cool eggplants on baking sheet 5 minutes, then follow recipe from step 3.
BABA GHANOUSH WITH SAUTÉED ONION
Sautéed onion gives the baba ghanoush a sweet, rich flavor.
Heat 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil in 8-inch skillet