any foam from the surface of the soup.
3. Discard the cobs and bay leaf; transfer 1½ cups of the soup to a blender and purée. Stir the purée back into the chowder to thicken it. Season with salt and pepper and serve the soup garnished with the reserved bacon and basil.
COOKING NOTE Here are two other methods for slicing corn kernels off the cob: Lay the cob horizontally on the cutting board to cut off the kernels. Or, firmly hold the cob vertically, resting the bottom on the cutting board, and slice off the kernels from the bottom half first, then turn the cob and hold the opposite end as you slice off the kernels from the other half.
German Split Pea Soup
Erbsensuppe
SAVEUR
editor Todd Coleman fell in love with this fragrant split pea soup as a child in Germany. The addition of a little flour gives it a smooth texture, while celery root adds an earthy note.
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 slices bacon, minced
1 large onion, minced
1 rib celery, minced
1 large carrot, peeled and minced
1 small celery root, peeled and minced Kosher salt, to taste
2 tbsp. flour
10 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
8 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
1 lb. green split peas, rinsed and drained
2 large smoked ham hocks (about 2 lbs. total) Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Serves 4
1. Put the oil and bacon into a 6-qt. pot and cook over medium-high heat until crisp, about 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a paper towel–lined plate; set aside. Add onions, celery, carrots, and celery root, season with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 10 minutes. Stir in flour; cook, stirring, for 3 minutes.
2. Tie the parsley, thyme, and bay leaves together with kitchen twine; add to the pot along with the peas, ham hocks, and 7 cups water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, until peas are very tender, about 1 hour. Remove from heat. Discard herbs. Transfer hocks to a plate and let cool; pull off and chop the meat; discard fat, skin, and bones. Stir meat into the soup, season with salt and pepper, and ladle the soup into bowls. Sprinkle with reserved bacon.
Comfort Bowl
The year my family moved to Germany, my dad booked us a bus trip into the Taunus Mountains, north of Frankfurt—an adventure that included dinner and the chance to chop down our own Christmas tree. The excursion did not begin auspiciously. Mom, Dad, my then three-year-old brother, Casey (that’s him on the left in the photo; I’m in the Superman pj’s), and I piled into the car, but when Dad turned the key, the engine wouldn’t start. We made it to the bus just as it was about to depart. Three hours later, we arrived at our destination. We had to trudge deep into the woods, hungry and cold, to find a worthy specimen. A dose of salvation arrived hours later when we stopped off at a guesthouse for dinner and were served erbsensuppe, a nourishing split pea soup. Each smoky spoonful warmed our bodies and revived our spirits.
—Todd Coleman
French Onion Soup
Soupe à l’Oignon
The first step to making this brasserie classic is slowly braising onions with sherry and butter until they are luxuriously soft and intensely flavorful. Rich veal stock and a browned and bubbly layer of Gruyère further enrich the luscious soup, a favorite at the Paris brasserie Au Pied de Cochon (pictured); this recipe is based on theirs. To make it, you’ll need six ovenproof ceramic bowls.
1 cup white wine
½ cup plus 3 tbsp. sherry
10 tbsp. unsalted butter
1 tsp. sugar
3 large yellow onions, thinly sliced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
6 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
6 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
2 qts. beef or veal stock
12 ½ -inch-thick slices baguette
2 cloves garlic, smashed
6 cups grated Gruyère
2 cups finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 tsp. minced flat-leaf parsley for garnish, optional
Serves 6
1. Heat the oven to 425°F. Combine the wine, ½ cup sherry, 8
Jessica Conant-Park, Susan Conant