counting them out slowly.
My grandmother cooked often, exclusively Persian food, and in that manner typical to immigrants, exerted some control over her transplanted life through purity of the palate. Since she refused to eat in restaurants, the kitchen became her domain, from whence she spun fantastically delicate custards and fluffy cakes. Katouzi, she would call out to my grandfather, come eat. And he would assume his usual place at the table, making his way through a heaping pile of my favorite dish, adas polo, fluffy rice with cinnamon, lentils, and raisins drizzled with saffron. Then he would remind usâas usual, in verse, with a couplet that says when the appetite dwindles, the end approachesâthat at his prime, he could eat four times the amount of whatever he had just consumed, and drift into his bedroom for a nap.
My mother modeled herself after Agha Joon, seeing only what she wanted to see, impervious to everything else. I was like my grandmother, proud, thin-skinned, sensitive to every backward glance. And so it was with us, as it was with themâa constant friction, a dismay with the otherâs approach to the world. As Agha Joon planted his garden, enraptured by the petals and leaves, my grandmother ignored it icily, disdainful of its modest size, preferring not to have one at all. As my mother dragged me to operas, where we had to stand because seated tickets were too expensive, I fidgeted sullenly, mortified at being relegated to the serf quarters in the feudal system that was opera house seating. Iâd rather stay home and rent a movie, I insisted, than endure that sort of humiliation. But she wouldnât hear of it, and so we went, planted on our feet for hours on end, weekends in a row.
The apartment complex was overrun with other Iranian exiles, and the shoved-up-against-each-other intimacy of condo lifeâto the chagrin of Khaleh Farzi, who lived with themâerased the social distinctions imposed in Tehran by neighborhood and district. There were Iranians we could associate with, adam hesabi (good families), and a slew of undesirables who I wasnât sure whether I should say Salaam to. The bogey man of the émigrés was a man who I remember as Mr. Savaki. He had been an official in the SAVAK, the Shahâs brutal secret service, and he now spent endless hours by the pool, turning his body on the beach chair as though he was on a rotisserie. I didnât know what savaki meant at the timeâdidnât know it was a byword for tortureâexcept that every grown-upâs face drew tight and grave when the word was uttered. When my cousins and I spotted his leathery, wrinkled body stretched out on a pool chair, we would stare briefly at the tattoo of the Shahâs face on his bicep, and then flee. On the days he would come by for tea, sitting with Agha Joon to enumerate the flaws of Ayatollah Khomeini, Khaleh Farzi would fume. Maman, I donât understand why you let that man into our house, she complained to my grandmother.
Perhaps the only person more offensive than Mr. Savaki was Mrs. Bazaariâa vulgar rug merchant who prowled the complex in search of adam hesabi to terrorize into having tea. We secretly thought she was pleased with the revolution, because her husband could stay in Tehran and sell rugs to the newly rich revolutionaries, while she attempted to social climb among the old guard abroad. Despite the fact that she was now working at Woolworthâs, Khaleh Farzi stood her ground; our transplanted circumstances might make us vulnerable to every sort of indignity, but nothing could force her to consort with bazaaris. Occasionally the cunning Mrs. Bazaari would find pretexts to gain a foothold in the house, kidnapping Agha Joon in the neighborhood, driving him home, and then claiming she had found him lost, wandering miles away. Khaleh Farzi would wordlessly serve her a cup of tea, in silent protest against the transgression.
That we lived near