school system is gratis. The cafeteria serves a cheese course, classes run till 4:30 p.m. (and thatâs without extracurriculars), and most schools run on a six-day program, with half days on Wednesdays for elementary school students and Saturdays also, once your kidâs in middle school. Thatâs right, in four short years, my daughter will have school on Saturdays, from 9 a.m. to lunch. Now, in theory, yes, that means one canât go running off on a weekend getaway if one canât get a sitter, but it also means that one can start doing something outrageous on a Friday like knock back a bit oâ port.
Sometimes I think that I wouldnât live in France if I hadnât married a native, but it probably isnât true. I spent two years at the Ãcole des Beaux-Arts exchange program in Paris and two more years in the graduate painting program at RISD inProvidence, and although I had more fun in America, I never could have afforded to have a broken wrist set, and I sure as hell would never have coughed up what those people pay for their childrensâ higher education. If Anne and I already have rows over our vacation and recreation fund on her fancy lawyer salary and my less fancy artist one with a daughter in a free school that serves her duck casserole and Reblochon before naptime, I can only imagine what would happen if we had to dole out fifty grand a year so that Cam could get felt up on a pool table littered with plastic Solo Cups by some imbecile named Chuck.
And yet. And yet. Sometimes I feel that Anne and I lost something that was essential about usâto us, evenâwhen we left the States. We were foreigners studying in what was admittedly a strange land where the customs and mores never ceased to provide us with fodder for private jokes. Everything delighted us. We were insouciant and pompous. Anne started taking hip-hop ballet classes and wearing linen trench coats. She stocked canned snails in my pantry and empty shells in my freezer âjust in case.â On weekends in Boston, sheâd make me stand in crowded places and report back on whether I agreed with her about how clean people smelled. âLike mangoes,â she said. âAmerican girls always smell like fruit.â
And she was my best critic. As talented asâif not more talented thanâI as an illustrator, she had a built-in bullshit detector that served as a barometer for my graduate thesis show: an interactive series of pop-culture Russian dolls that depicted the rise or fall of cultural figures. For instance, in one set, the largest doll showed a painting of American women working on a factory floor during World War II. Under that, an image of a two-car garage, followed by a milk carton, then a stalk of corn. The smallest doll represented Martha Stewart. In another set, Iâd shellacked newspaper clips of union protesters throughoutBritain, and underneath that, an illustration of a British-made Gloster aircraft and so on and so forth with icons of the former British manufacturing industry until you came to a small doll representing Margaret Thatcher.
When we first moved back to Paris, I was still doing pop-culture politico work like thisâor rather, I was trying to in between changing nappies and running out to Franprix for overripe bananas. But sometimes, you just get really tired of keeping up the pretenses. Itâs like making small talk with the stranger seated next to you during dinner at a wedding. Youâre firing through the appetizers and first round of drinks, no problem, but by the time the chicken Marsala arrivesâgelatinous and tepidâyou think, Lord help me, Iâve got nothing left to say. Without realizing I was doing so, I slipped into time-out mode. With my art. My wife.
To her credit, Anne never asked that I start working on more conventional projects. I put the pressure on myself. Or rather, I felt pressure coming from Anneâs family and transformed this