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mixture and fold and toss to combine. Sprinkle over the pine nuts, parmesan and most of the chopped parsley and toss everything gently together again. Sprinkle with the remaining parsley and take to the table.
    Serves 6 as a starter; 4 as a main course.

TAGLIOLINI AL PESTO AMARO
    This ‘bitter pesto’ is not alarmingly so, but the rocket certainly gives a more rasping bite than the softer herbal scentedness of the traditional basil leaves. The anchovy fillets provide a counterbalancing salty intensity, though if you’re making this for vegetarians, simply leave them out and add a couple of tablespoons of grated pecorino instead (or indeed just bolster the parmesan quantities). Finally, and importantly, the ricotta’s milky calmness perfectly offsets the ferocious tangle of ingredients that precedes it, providing just the right amount of mellow creaminess.
    I tend to use tagliolini that’s been tinted green with spinach here but I have to say this is for reasons more visual than culinary. You neither have to go for the green, nor indeed use tagliolini to start with. Any pasta you like will do. One thing, though: you must make the pesto at the last minute (not hard) and use immediately; the sauce loses its intensity, and thus its point, on standing.
    500g tagliolini verdi
    50g rocket leaves
    1 fat or 2 small cloves garlic, peeled
    30g pine nuts
    3 anchovy fillets
    25g parmesan or pecorino, freshly grated
    100ml extra virgin olive oil
    1 tablespoon ricotta cheese
    Heat a large pan of salted water and cook the pasta. Put all the other ingredients except for the olive oil and the ricotta into the bowl of the food processor fitted with the double-bladed knife and blitz to a purée. With the motor running, slowly pour the oil down the funnel, till you have a feltily green emulsion. Remove the lid, stir with a spatula to combine the oily puddle which will have collected around the blades and then dollop in the ricotta. Put the lid back on and blitz for a final few seconds, then tip into a bowl and stir to mix well.
    You should be doing all this while the pasta’s cooking. Once it’s ready, drain and dress with this intense, baize-green emulsion.
    Serves 6 as a starter; 4 as a main course.

RIGATONI AL POMODORO E PREZZEMOLO
    I am a completely shameless solicitor for recipes: I don’t restrict myself to bothering just my friends and colleagues, but open the field to include any of their friends and colleagues too (indeed, anyone). This recipe finds its way here by just such a route. It was sent via a friend of my producer, David Edgar, one Geoff Metzker (to whom I am very grateful, as you should be, too) who picked it up during his time working for Sky in Rome. This is how this game works: cooking isn’t about the suspicious guarding of closely kept secrets but is a matter of sharing, passing on, the almost gossipy dissemination of habits and practices; recipes that are considered high level security documents are not recipes that survive (or ones, frankly, that you’d want to eat).
    The bare ingredients don’t look much maybe, but everything comes together, without fuss, in the pan, on the plate: the perfect sauce when every tomato in the shop is tight-shouldered and unluscious.
    6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
    3 cloves garlic, cut into slivers
    400g tin chopped tomatoes
    125ml stock (Marigold vegetable bouillon powder and water is just fine)
    bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
    salt and pepper
    500g rigatoni
    Put a large pan of salted water on to boil for the pasta.
    Heat the oil and gently fry the garlic over low to medium heat. When it begins to take on a golden colour – though don’t let it scorch – add the tomatoes and turn up the heat. Stir in the stock and let it bubble away, reducing the sauce until it becomes quite lumpy and oily; this should take no more than about 10 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and (just before serving) add the parsley. Taste for seasoning, too, of