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close to the concept of dress codes. But be aware that you're usually following one, whether you think you are or not -- and don't be afraid to "overdress" a little when there's no fixed code.
    Unless you're violating a specific, written expectation or you're wildly out of place, there's no error in being the best-dressed guy in the room. It's allowed. It's even a good thing.
    There are going to be exceptions. You probably don't want to wear a really expensive jacket and slacks to volunteer at a soup kitchen -- that's just rude. But broadly speaking, if there's no formal dress code, that means you can't be "overdressed." All you can be is "well-dressed," and that's never a bad thing.
     

C HAPTER 10: F ORMAL D RESS ( M ORNING D RESS AND W HITE T IE)
    A caution for modern readers: the term "formal dress" is badly misused in today's society.
    Wedding invitations are the chief offenders here. People will cheerfully request that their guests appear in "formal dress" with no conception of what they're asking.
    So let us be very clear: the term "formal dress" is a specific standard. There are two traditional formal looks for men, at least in countries that do not have their own cultural formal dress: "morning dress" in the daytime and "white tie" at night. Anything else is not truly "formal."
    Even the tuxedo, which most Americans think of as "formal wear," is really only a semiformal outfit. If invited to an official event like an awards ceremony or a ball that requests formal dress, wear the appropriate daytime or evening costume. If it is a private, personal event like a wedding, and you are unsure of the host's intention, check discreetly beforehand.
    Daytime Formal Attire: Morning Dress
    Of the two "formal dress" options available to most men, the daytime version is the less commonly used.
    It is most popular in England, where it is still worn by government officials at some of their public functions, and occasionally by members of the aristocracy at high-formality social events.
    The primary components of morning dress for men are:
A morning coat -- a single-breasted, peak-lapel cutaway coat, usually fastened with a single button, sometimes with silk piping along the edges. Gray is the most common color for social wear.
Formal trousers -- striped (or, less commonly, checked) trousers from heavy wool. They generally do not match the morning coat, except in the "Morning Gray" suit sometimes worn for daytime weddings and in black for funerals. They are sometimes known as "spongebags" or as "cashmere stripes," the latter of which refers to the pattern rather than the material. Only suspenders are appropriate; formal and semiformal attire should never include a belt.
A waistcoat -- generally gray, black, or buff (a yellowish-tan color). Again, it does not match the jacket except in gray morning suits or black funeral garb.
A formal shirt with a high wing collar or a detachable turndown collar attached with studs. In formalwear, wing collared shirts traditionally have single cuffs, while turndown shirts have double cuffs.
A conservative necktie (with turndown collars) or a formal ascot (with wing collars). Note that a formal ascot is not the same thing as a day cravat, which is not worn with morning coats.
Black oxfords, riding boots, or dress boots.
    Other optional items include pocket squares, boutonnières, canes, top hats (the only kind of hat that should be worn with morning dress), spats, and suede, chamois, or kid leather gloves in lemon or gray.
    Note that these are the contemporary, modern standards for daytime formalwear. Historically, even the morning coat was a casual option, with the now-obsolete frock coat worn for formal daytime occasions.
    Evening Formal Attire: White Tie
    The morning coat or morning suit, as the name would suggest, is meant for daytime wear.
    In the evening, the maximum dress standard for men is defined by white tie attire. This is an inflexible standard even compared to the tuxedo, which most men