German fashion, and my mother disliked organ meats.
We also ate much fish: in summer, walleyed pike, bass, pickerel, crappies, and sunfish caught on poles made of trimmed tree branches; in winter, pickerel and pike hooked through the ice on special flagged rigs my dad carved out of apple-box wood. And there were suckers and red horse seined during the brief spring spawning season and âcuredâ in my uncleâs smokehouse.
Twice a month we made cherry cakes with lard or bacon drippings, cocoa, and icings of powdered sugar mixed with heavy cream and colored with food coloring. Soft, raisin-filled cookies were a favorite. We ground the raisins in a heavy food grinder, the sort you anchor by tightening a large wing nut to the table. Most meals, though, did not include sweets, except for a slice of bread covered with jam or cream and sugar. We sometimes ate fresh strawberries, wild raspberries, lettuce, and fresh vegetables in season. During the winter, greens were entirely unavailable, even in the grocery stores.
Pancakes were a staple. The sourdough starter was months, possibly years, old, and bubbled away, sitting in its crock (âYou Beat Eggs, We Beat Pricesâ) on the kitchen range.
Dad was always first out of bed, winter or summer. He started the fire, building it from the quiescent coals of the nightâs banked fire. He flipped on the radio to WLS, and sounds of Roy Acuff, LuluBelle and Scottie, and Minnie Pearl wafted through the house as flames roared up the stovepipe.
Next, he fired the range, set the black fry pan and charred griddle over the heat, and added flour, a couple of fresh eggs, and water to his pancake batter. As bacon fried, he spooned grease onto the griddle and spread the batter. Upstairs, still in bed, I felt the rising warmth. A few inches from my face, frost melted and dripped from the nail ends.
I dressed quickly. Downstairs I piled griddlecakes on my plate and smeared them with fresh butter, clotted cream, and blueberry jam. Crisp bacon cut the sweetness. I drank fresh milk. Dad had coffee from a granite pot he kept brewing all day. He called the beverage âmudâ; it was thicker than espresso. We never scoured the pot.
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The Butchering
1
Dad told me to hold the knife and the pan.
I heard the click on wood
of the bullet inserted, rammed,
saw a flicker flash
in a tree beside the trough,
saw a grain in the sowâs mouth,
felt my guts slosh.
âStand back,â Dad said.
Waffled snow track
pressed by his boots and mine.
Blood and foam.
âKeep the knife sharp, son,
and hold the pan.â
One of us had shuffled,
tramped a design,
feet near the jack pine.
âSheâll bleed slow.
Catch all the blood you can.â
A rose unfolded, froze.
âCanât we wait?â I said.
âIt should turn warmer.â
Spark, spark buzzing
in the dark.
âItâs time,â Dad said, and waited.
2
Bless all this beauty! preacher
had exclaimed; all sin and beauty
in this world, beast and innocent .
Fistbones gripped the foreshortened
pulpit rim.
Thick glasses drove
his furious pupils in.
3
Dad brought the rifle to the skull.
The sowâs nose plunged into the swill,
the tips of her white tallow ears as well.
Splunk! Straight through the brain, suet
and shell. Stunned! Discharge of food,
bran. Twitch of an ear. Potato, carrot,
turnip slab. âQuick. The knife, the pan.â
He sliced the throat.
The eye closed over.
Hairy ears stood up, collapsed.
Her blood soured into gelatin.
She had begun to shit.
4
We dragged her
to the block-and-tackle rig.
We tied her tendons, raised her,
sloshed her up and down.
We shaved her hair,
spun her around, cut off
her feet and knuckles,
hacked off her head,
slashed her belly
from asshole down through
bleached fat throat.
Jewels spilled out,
crotches of arteries,
fluids danced and ran.
We hoisted her out of dog reach,
dumped her entrails in the snow,
left the