it was Abdullah El-Tell, a tall commander wearing a red-and-white diamond-checked scarf carefully accenting his crisp uniform; he would become a vital emissary for leaders of the two nations.
Carving Up Jerusalem
It was November 30, 1948. Israel was seizing the advantage across the Middle East battlefields. Tens of thousands of Palestinians were on the run, heading for Lebanon, Jordan, Syria and Egypt. Israel had taken control of most of Jerusalem but didnât have the most important part: Arab forces had routed Israeli fighters from the Jewish Quarter and taken full control of the Old City. Israel and Jordan were ready to stop shooting at each other. And they were asking Dayan and Tell to create new maps to ensure that the guns would stay silent.
Sitting in the abandoned house that day in 1948, the two military commanders faced the difficult job of splitting Jerusalem. They laid the map out on an uneven surface as dozens of officers from both sides looked on. Dayan used a red grease pencil. Tell used a green one. Their lines rarely met. For the men, the lines were drawn only to reflect the general position of their forces on the front lines. They were supposed to be temporary cease-fire lines that would give diplomats some breathing room. The two men didnât expect their rough work to mark the final, firm border.
So, without much concern, the men created chunks of No Manâs Land between their red and green lines. It amounted to nearly 750 acres of land in Jerusalem to keep fighting over. 1 In some places, No Manâs Land was wider than a football field. In others, it was thinner than a tight city alley.
One reason the line failed to completely end the fighting was that the map the military officers used wasnât detailed enough. When the map was magnified to settle land disputes, it became clear that the grease pencil lines werenât thin enoughâabout four millimeters thick in some placesâto accurately fix the borders. Israel and Jordan would continue to argue over every millimeter. When the generals finished their work in 1948, the United Nations set up a special committeeâthe Mixed Armistice Commission, or MACâto broker border disputes between Israel and Jordan. The UN team set up shop in the new No Manâs Land near the heavily guarded border crossing between East and West Jerusalem. The office would be the scene of endless disputes over the serious and the surreal. The absurdity of the arguments seemed to grow each year. A rotating series of UN commissioners tried in vain to stop the bickering. But how could the commission settle disputes if Israel and Jordan couldnât agree on where one country ended and the other one began?
âItâs not enough to have a line,â said Raphael Israeli, a Hebrew University scholar who served for five years as an Israeli representative to the MAC. âThe question is: What do you understand about the line?â
In the densest parts of Jerusalem, the âthick of the lineâ cut through the streets, cleaving buildings in half or enveloping them entirely. The border drawn by Tell around the Old City posed a particular conundrum for Jordan. Tellâs line covered the Old City walls where Jordanian soldiers kept constant watch. That made it impossible for Jordan to agree to any interpretation of the border that accepted the inner edge of the line as the outer edge ofJordanâs border. It would have created an absurd situation in which the walls of the Old City were in No Manâs Land and the walled city itself was part of Jordan.
Meron Benvenisti, an Israeli politician who served as deputy mayor of Jerusalem soon after Israel captured the city in 1967, later described the map as a âcartographerâs nightmare and a geographerâs catastrophe.â 2
The inability to resolve the issue led to years of fatal confrontations in No Manâs Land. Israeli soldiers patrolling along the disputed lines were